Girdle:  Textiles & Materials Used

As in China, there were large trade workshops in Byzantium, apparently always based in Constantinople, for textiles as for other arts, like mosaics.[1] Early decorated cloth is mostly embroidered in wool on a linen base, and linen is generally more common than cotton throughout the period.[2]  Fine silks of varied colors and weaves were preferred by the aristocracy of the time, however linen was a common textile found throughout the continents.[3]

The girdle portion of this reproduction is constructed with gold and black ecclesiastical trim in an attempt to emulate silk embroidery as seen on the Branko Belt (Fig. 2).I also emulated the Branko Belt quatrefoil frames; couched with linen floss onto a base of black linen.[4]  The interior of this or girdle was stabilized with buckram, to avoid wrinkling or “scrunching” while wearing, as it is broader than a standard belt width.

Figure 3 Glove from the Imperial Regalia of the Holy Roman Emperors in Vienna, Palermo,  Italy c1220

Fresh water pearls and silver plated beads were used to replicate the opulence and ostentatious topical decoration of the royalty of the time.  Historically a garment would have been adorned with pearls and precious gems, determined priceless in our modern terms.  These gloves were made in the early 13th century for the coronation of Emperor Frederick II. As with many of the other sumptuous garments that make up the Insignia of the Holy Roman Empire, the gloves were made in the Royal Workshops of Sicily. These gloves were worn by the Emperor at his coronation in 1220 (Fig. 3).[5]  As I do not have rubies, sapphires and gold at my disposal I determined a more modest emulation was sufficient in order to fulfill my reproduction.

Instructions for  Girdle Construction

Step 1:  Measure desired area of waist where girdle will be fastened & determine desired width of girdle

Step 2:  Cut 2 pieces of base fabric

Step 3:  Attach desired trim, adornment, embroidery, couching to a “right” side of base fabric

Figure 4 Belt Ornament, 4th Century, Bronze.  Metropolian Museum of Art NY, NY

Step 4:  Place girdle base “right sides” to “right sides” and sew the length of the fabric on both sides.  Take care to not sew the ends closed

Step 5:  Turn the girdle inside out.  Finished seams on outside, raw edges on the interior of the girdle. 

Step 6:  Press edges smooth, turn in ends and sew closed

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[1] http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Byzantine_dress

[2] http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/byza/hd_byza.html

[3] http://www.qantara-med.org/qantara4/public/show_document.php?do_id=701&lang=en

[4] The Branko Belt:  The long narrow strip displays eighteen ogival quatrefoil frames, in which three motifs are repeated: a wyvern (two-footed dragon), a falcon and a crest consisting of a helm surmounted by the foreparts of an animal which resembles a bear.

[5] http://medieval.webcon.net.au/extant_gloves_frederick_ii.html