Reconstruction & Theory

The Royal Belt of Byzantium

The Byzantine Empire (or Byzantium) was the Greek-speaking Eastern Roman Empire of the Middle Ages, centered around its capital of Constantinople (modern day Istanbul, Turkey).[1] During its existence of more than a thousand years (330 – 1453)  the Empire remained one of the most powerful economic, cultural, and military forces in Europe .  Due to its proximity and gateway to Europe and Asia, Constantinople was a major center of trade, religion, arts and fashion. [2]

Figure 1  Bishop Gunthers Shroud,  Bamberg Conservatory, Bamberg Germany 1059-1067

Byzantine dress changed considerably over the thousand years of the Empire,
but was essentially conservative. The Byzantines liked color and pattern, made and exported very richly patterned cloth, woven and embroidered for the upper classes, and dyed and printed for the lower. A different border or trimming round the edges of garments was very common, and many single stripes down the body or around the upper arm are seen, often denoting class or rank.[3]

The Byzantine Empire had a complex system of aristocracy and bureaucracy, which was inherited from the Roman Empire. At the apex of the pyramid stood the Emperor, sole ruler and divinely ordained, but beneath him a multitude of officials and court functionaries operated the administrative machinery...

 Style for the middle and upper classes followed the latest fashions of the Imperial Court.As in the West during the Middle Ages, clothing was very expensive for the poor, who probably wore the same well-worn clothes nearly all the time.  Both men’s and women’s garments were very similar in silhouette and adornment.  One accessory that stands out in mosaics, tapestries and effigies is the wide belts fastened with a prominent jeweled buckle or pin. This belt was worn over the palla or dalmatic to hold it in place women of high ranking.[4]  The Shroud of Bishop Gunther (Fig. 1) is one of the many examples that depict a lady of station or status with such a belt. 



Reconstructive Theory of the Royal Belt

As I am currently unable to document an extant belt and fastening pin that is similar to ones seen in religious and royal icons from the Byzantine era; I am basing my reconstruction on theory and general historical knowledge of fashion, textiles and adornment of the time period.  These fashions can be seen in ivory reliefs, mosaics, frescoes’ and in the designs of fabric. 

Figure 2 The Branko Belt  Late Byzantine, mid-14th century AD, The British Museum, London

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[1] http://www.costumes.org/Classes/fashiondress/byzantium.html

[2] History of Costume, Blanche Payne

[3] 20,000 Years of Fashion, Francois Boucher

[4]History of Costume, Blanche Payne